Date: 20231102
Time: 8:10 – 16:30
Distance: 18,9 km
Overnight stay: Chileno Camping, Torres del Paine
Walk
No big breakfast today, only some cookies and chocolate nuts, with water. I save the can of Fanta I bought yesterday for later today when I need a sugar shot.
Today I am not only blown away by the scenery but also literally by the fierce winds. I already think the wind is strong, man am I in for a surprise later today.
And then you are ‘on the beach’, that is if you count big pebbles as beach. I walk a small section very near to the water. The wind is so strong that the water gets blown from the lake.
I meet the couple from Utah again, they stayed at Cuernos and are now going up to Britanico. They made it to the first suspension bridge at glacier Grey.
After about 3.5 kilometers, and not 2.5 kilometers as is shown on all the signs, I reach Cuernos. Time for coffee, Nescafé but better than nothing.
Before I leave, I put the rain cover on my backpack because there are some dark clouds in front of me. But luckily they drift away from me. I only feel some drops. This is good because the rain cover comes of the backpack, probably because of the shrubs and trees that are growing over the path.
I take regular stops when going up, this is good to take in the view and to catch my breath. I remember when doing the South West Coast Path this was not necessary, but then again that was almost 6 years ago…
Just like yesterday I take a break after I cross a suspension bridge, here I notice that I am off track, but given the amount of other hikers I don’t worry. There is also a horse track here and I think Gaia took that one when it created the route. A little bit later I am back on track again.
I see sparrows catching the gusts of wind and flying away at very high speed. Looks like a very good adrenaline rush (do birds have adrenaline? I checked, they do).
I decided to have a big break when there are less than 7 kilometers to walk. When I do there are 6 kilometers left and I sit on a rock and have my sugar shot and a protein bar. A couple passes by that I already met a couple of times today. The guy asks if he should take a picture of me. So today not only scenic pictures, but also one or two with me in it.
Then it goes up to Chileno, a steep section of a few kilometers and exposed to the wind. Here I learn that the fierce wind of today was nothing but a breeze. At some sections going up the wind gusts are so strong that I am glad I have my hiking poles, otherwise I would have been blown from my socks (sorry for the literal translation 🙂
Raindrops are falling but not too much and they are welcome to bring some extra cooling.
At some point I see a lot of people coming from another path to the left. I think they also come from Cuernos, I probably could have taken another route, maybe with less height differences. But then again this was a nice trip.
I made it! Before half past four I am at Chileno and check-in for my tent. While checking in I also order my first and very well deserved beer of today. First things first.
At first I sit outside but with these winds that is not very nice. So I go inside the overcrowded restaurant and I find a spot to sit. Here I meet Renata who is walking the trek with here two Brazilian friends. I passed them a couple of times today and she asks if it was easy for me because it looked like I was walking the trek without any difficulty. I assure her that it wasn’t as easy as it looked. Renata is originally from Brazil and we talk about al lot of things. Sitting with Renata and her friends is a couple with a woman from Peru. She tells me to go to Peru, like Lise and Sven did last year. She also tells me to go to restaurant Central in Lima, the number one restaurant in the world. Expensive but worth it. I checked it and in 2023, it earned the No. 1 spot on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants ranking.
They are making plans to go up to Tres Picos tomorrow and they want to leave at 3 am! They ask me to join them but this is really too early for me. I am having breakfast at 7 am, my first decent meal in two days.
After taking a shower I go back to the restaurant to have another beer and to type my adventures of the day.
Weather
Today it was mostly cloudy with some short sunny periods, some drops of rain and a lot of wind.
Songtext of the day
The sparrows were flying fast and high today. Here is Flying High by Captain Hollywood Project.
We ‘re flying high
We ‘re flying right up to the sky
We fly so high
We’re flying right up to the sky
We fly so high, we fly so high
Yes I don’t need no stress
‘Cause that’s the kind of stuff that makes a mess
Breakin’ me down and takin’ me to the test
Keepin’ me brother from givin’ my best
Gotta chill gotta chill gotta gotta kill
Before I cannot feel anything that’s goin’ down
Turnin’ my head around and around
Takin’ me to the highest level
Diggin’ my own grave with a shovel
Many boss remain in my brain
Cover me truly and sing.
I cannot speak, I cannot speak
I wake up sweatin’ up in my sleep
That’s why, that’s why I’m flyin’ high.
We’re flying high (We’re flying high)
We’re flying right up to the sky
We fly so high (We fly so high)
We’re flying right up to the sky
With an extra station from the ground
The stars are shining round and round
So high we’re flying right up to the sky.
We’re flying high (We fly so high, we fly so high)
We’re flying high.
Yeah that’s the way I got to go
When everybody’s singin’ my mo and mo
Pickin’ up the record in a record store
Hollywood, Hollywood on the radio
Jammin’, jammin’ forty people bang me
It’s me and gets his slam in right
So why don’t you play all night
Puttin’ on the jeans and the jeans all tight
Gotta go gotta go gotta go now
Try to relax and I don’t know how
Listenin’ to the sound I like to hear best
The sound that makes me cheer
I’m gettin’ away from a everyday cry
Runnin’ away from hardcore lie
I’m flyin’, I’m flyin’ high.
We’re flying high (We’re flying high)
We’re flying right up to the sky
We fly so high (We fly so high)
We’re flying right up to the sky
With an extra station from the ground
The stars are shining round and round
So high we’re flying right up to the sky.
We’re flying high (We fly so high, we fly so high)
We’re flying high.
We’re flying high (We’re flying high)
We’re flying right up to the sky
We fly so high (We fly so high)
We’re flying right up to the sky
With an extra station from the ground
The stars are shining round and round
So high we’re flying right up to the sky.
We’re flying high (We fly so high, we fly so high)
We’re flying high.
After breakfast I pack backpack and leave for Britanico. It is a bit of a puzzle how I have to start. They changed the paths. But I find my way.
With the heavy backpack, walking sticks are definitely a good idea. Yesterday I had them with me, but didn’t need them. Today I do!
I see again a lot of dead trees.
Campamento Italiano is only a short distance away and I have a break there as well. My shirt and the inside of my coat are soaking wet.
It goes up and up and I have nice views on the mountains, the river and glacier Frances. It is a touch hike up. I would have never done this with the backpack.
I reach Italiano again, pick up my backpack and walk the rest to camp Frances where I booked a tent. It is a tent on poles and I have one whole tent by myself, which is nice. Yesterday I got an email that they upgraded me. No idea what that means, but I do have the tent closest to the reception and not one all the way down or up.
I follow a rocky path. Early in the day I don’t meet a lot of people. That changes when it gets later.
It is warm in the sun, but chilly or even cold in the shade. That also changes during the day. In the afternoon it is f*cking hot in the sun and there is almost no shade.
I made GPX tracks of all the planned routes but they are not really necessary. One cannot get lost here because there is only one path. However, I get other useful information like where I am and what altitudes to expect.
I meet two Australian guys and talk a bit to one of them. He has a good tip, at the end of my route I have to continue for about 5 minutes after the 2nd suspension bridge to get good views on the glacier.
I pass two suspension bridges. The first one crosses a small stream that probably can get bigger. The second one is longer and higher and has its own private glacier coming down from the mountain. Probably a temporary glacier.
The way back to Refugio Grey goes way faster than the way up. I meet the couple from Utah again. They are on their way up but they don’t know if they have enough time. They also have to go back to Paine Grande. I tell them how far it is and that there are some steep sections. I am afraid they are not going to make it.
The rest of the track back to Paine Grande is rather uneventful. I refill my water bottle once more and I don’t stop at all the viewpoints, I did that already the first time around.
The last part up is hard, I already walked 25 kilometers through harsh terrain and I feel it in the legs. Once I start going down, the last kilometers, it gets better. Even though I am tired and my pace slows down, I still overtake a lot of people. That means their normal pace is less than my tired pace…
The hotel shuttle brings me to the airport, a quick transfer over roads that have definitely seen better times and I have the shuttle to myself.
The trip with the bus from Puerto Natales to Pudeto was spectacular with all the mountains covered with snow and the lakes surrounding us. In total there were about 20-25 passengers on the bus. About half of them leave the bus at Laguna Amarga.
In the distance I see a bird circling in the air. Given the distance it must be a huge bird. Might be a Condor but I can’t make sure from the bus.
I think I can see the route that I am going to take the day after tomorrow. I do see the occasional Lama, or Alpaca, and then there is a bunch of them and they are in the middle of the road.
What strikes me is that all trees are dead, they are just white skeletons. I have seen this before in the Czech Republic and it was caused by acid rain. I ask one of the park rangers why the trees are dead. Alas she doesn’t speak English but Google is your friend, if you are a park ranger and have Internet here at the end of the world. She explains that there was a fire caused by humans in 2011. It burned 17000 hectares and lasted for 2 months.
Time to catch the catamaran. The trip takes half an hour and we get spectacular views of the mountains from different sides. There are not many people on board. I talk to a couple from Utah, they arrived yesterday and it is also their first time in South America. She takes my picture and I take one of them.
I check in at the refugio and they show me ‘my’ room. It’s not mine of course, I have to share it with 5 other people, although I am the only one when I get there.
It’s raining! We wanted to go for a walk, but the weather forecast doesn’t look too good. Instead we walk to La Sebastiana Museo de Pablo Neruda, one of the houses of the poet, consul and Nobel price winner Pablo Neruda. He build a vey nice house on the hill with perfect views over the hills and harbor of Valparaíso.
We walk back to ocean level and up again to our apartment, using the ascensor this time. It’s time for me to go. I already had everything packed for the W-trek and leave today for Santiago. I booked a hotel near the airport because I need to catch a plane to Puerto Natales tomorrow morning at 6:30 meaning that I have to be at the airport at 4:30.
I walk to the bus terminal, just to find out I have to wait for more than an hour and a half for a bus.
Today we, Sandy, Ada and I, want to walk to Laguna Verde, a 12 kilometer walk. We start by going uphill and keep to the main roads.
We continue our walk because there is nothing else to do. When we are two streets further a man from a minimarket shouts to us to get our attention. He tells us that it is not safe to go further up. If we continue we will probably be robbed of all our possessions.
Change of plans, we walk downhill a go to Cerro Alegre, one of the most touristic zones of Valparaiso, a neighborhood with lots of color, where we have a beer. From there we walk to the Piano steps and Cerro Conception where we have a very nice view on the lower part of the city and the harbor. In fact when we look down, we are directly above the Valparaíso Beer House.
The other graveyards are closed so we decide to find our way downhill to have something to drink at the Valparaíso Beer House. We find some very narrow stairs down and we descend to ocean level. The stairs are probably not meant for tourists like us but the gate at the bottom can be opened, so we don’t need to go back up.
After our pause we go to the harbor and from there we walk along the coast, or rather the harbor, to Playa San Mateo where we find nice views over the ocean and the coast line. We go back the same way we came and finish the day in a Chinese restaurant where we have a good meal.
After breakfast we go down with the ascensor and walk to Plaza Sotomayor. I decided to give Uber one last try and lo and behold, within one minute the driver shows up and delivers us in Concón. Here we start our walk, but since I gave up some random address in Concón, we first have to walk down to the ocean.
We walk along the ocean side which is very rocky here. We see all kinds of birds like the Peruvian pelican. At one point we also see 3 South American sea lions. When we continue walking it looks like there will be no bar or restaurant for quite some time, so we head back and go to the restaurant where the sea lions were. On the terrace we are very close to the sea lions and we enjoy our drinks. That is, I ordered a Michelada because I thought that it was a beer brand. The waiter pointed to the other beers they had, but I did not understand, my Spanish is not that well. 
When he came to serve, I got a glass with salt on the rim and some lemon juice (I think) in it. He then put in some sauce and some tabasco and I could choose one of the beers they had. I went for the Calafate ale and he put that in as well. Time to look up what Michelada means, apparently it is a cocktail with beer in it! Now that I had it, I also tried it. It was not too bad, but not something I will repeat. Luckily there was still some beer left in the bottle that I drank after I had finished the cocktail.
I notice that they have a lot of Hottentot Fig growing along the coast. I have seen this also in Portugal, the Hottentot Fig poses a serious ecological problem by forming vast monospecific zones and hence lowering biodiversity
We continued our walk along the coast by entering a section along the dunes of Concón. We already saw these from the car but now we walked on the other side, the ocean side. It was a nice stretch to walk with again a nice rocky coast until the road was blocked. As walkers, we could pass the barriers they put up and continued. 
But not very far because after 200 meters or so the road was completely blocked because of road works. So back again, we looked for a path into the dunes, but there were only options that were very steep and hard to do and I did not know if they would lead us to something. After a little less than 2 kilometers, there was a road going up the hill and we followed that through the sub urbs of Concón.
Once we passed the dunes, we headed down again. From our high position we could see the other end of the road block. The good thing about the detour was that we had some magnificent views from the hill over the ocean and the coast.
It started out a bit chilly today, but while we were walking it got warmer and the sun came out, which made it quite warm. I even got a burn on my face, not seriously, but still.
First we walk to the Palacio de la Moneda, the seat of the President of the Republic of Chile. We also were here yesterday and now I know why there is so much police in this area. In front of the palacio there is a huge flag of Chile at the beginning of Paseo Bulnes, a nice street were you can buy a lot of stuff at small stalls. This is also the street where the beer café is where Ada and I ended up last evening.
We walk through the city and reach the faculty of natural sciences. They have a very modern building and Sandy arranges that we can go inside, after we have registered with our passports. In the basement they have a lot of sport facilities, including among others basketball, squash, judo, tennis and even a swimming pool.
Sandy has a location planned to have lunch and we take the metro from Parque O’Higgins to Santa Isabel to get there. We are now in Barrio Italia and we walk to Av. Italia where there are plenty of small bars and restaurants. The first place where we sit down has no beer. That’s no good, so we walk a little further to Malacria. Here we have a very good lunch and I can enjoy a good beer with it.
Everybody talks Spanish here and we made a nice stroll today, so here is 
Na het ontbijt reken ik af bij zur Lindenau en ga de auto halen. Die heeft de hele tijd op een parkeerplaats een stuk verderop gestaan. Ik rij door de smalle straatjes naar ons Gästehaus. Dat gaat een stuk makkelijker zonder allemaal toeristen op straat.
Als we terug bij het station aankomen, komt onze trein net aan… en rijdt zonder ons weer weg. We moesten nog tickets kopen en naar de andere kant van het spoor zien te komen en dat lukte niet in die korte tijd. Dus eerst maar eens een ijsje eten uit de convenience shop bij het station. Terwijl we dat doen kijken we of er wellicht een bus gaat. Die is er, maar dan zijn we niet eerder op onze bestemming dan met de trein die over een uur gaat. We hebben eigenlijk geen zin om zo lang bij het station rond te hangen en ik verwacht dat er in het dorp nog niet veel open is, maandagmorgen en zo. Dus pakken we een taxi naar Schloss Johannisberg. Dan hoeven we niet op de trein te wachten en ook niet nog met de bus omhoog.
Bij Schloss Johannisberg lopen we eerst even naar het terras waar we gisteren zaten om foto’s van het uitzicht te maken. Gisteren zijn we namelijk hals over kop vertrokken om de bus te halen.
Op een gegeven moment komen we weer geiten tegen, niet heel veel, 3 stuks maar deze keer. Een stukje verder is een boerderij en hier hebben ze een koelkast buiten staan met wijn, bier, fris en water. De prijslijst hangt erbij en er is een gleuf waar je de betaling in kunt doen. Ondanks dat we nog niet zo lang aan het lopen zijn en dat we genoeg water bij ons hebben, nemen we toch een fles Apfelschorle, gewoon omdat het kan en omdat het lekker koud is.
Ze komen naar ons toe en wurmen hun hoofd door de afrastering om aandacht te krijgen.
Na een tijdje langs de bosrand gelopen te hebben, lopen we toch ook het bos in. De Rhein is ver te zoeken…
Eigenlijk moeten we de andere kant op, maar we lopen er toch naartoe. Het blijkt honing te zijn, dat komt goed uit, daar was Lise nog naar op zoek. We kopen twee potten en vervolgen onze route naar Kloster Eberbach.
De Rheinsteig loopt over het terrein van Kloster Eberbach en we kijken rond in de tuin van dit grote klooster. De Vinothek is open en we halen druivensap en druivensapschorle. Die drinken we buiten op een bankje op, het is lekker weer.
Nadat we het klooster verlaten hebben, lopen we een stukje langs de kloostermuur aan de buitenkant en gaan dan het bos weer in. Het begint een beetje te regenen, maar daar hebben we weinig last van zo onder de bomen. Als we weer uit het bos komen, is het alweer droog. We lopen nu door grasvelden en daarna weer door de wijngaarden naar Kiedrich. Net voor Kiedrich begint het toch weer te regenen, niet hard maar wel grote druppels.
Kiedrich was het eindpunt van onze route en we nemen de bus terug naar de Rhein, naar Eltville waar onze auto staat. Hier zoeken we een plekje om even lekker uit te rusten en iets te eten en te drinken, uiteraard met uitzicht op de Rhein.
Daarna zoeken we onze auto op en gaat het terug naar huis. De terugreis verloopt voorspoedig, het is niet erg druk op de weg, en om even voor 7 uur zet ik Lise af op het station in Blerick. Lise met de trein en de bus verder naar Eindhoven, ik met de auto naar Baarlo.
Omdat we vandaag weer terug naar Limburg reden en omdat het Lise opgevallen is dat je daar welkom geheten wordt via borden waar niet alleen de naam van de provincie op staat, maar “De Limburgers heten u welkom”, heeft Lise vandaag gekozen voor 
Gisteravond zaten we bij Stadt Frankfurt om te eten en ik zat uiteraard met mijn laptop de blog van gisteren te maken, met tekst van Lise. Na het eten, bij het afrekenen vroeg de serveerster of ik ze wilde bewerten en dat heb ik toen gedaan op haar telefoon, 5 sterren want we waren zeer tevreden over het eten, de ambiance en de service. Toen ze wegliep, liep ik achter haar aan om naar het toilet te gaan en hoorde ik haar tegen haar collega’s zeggen: “Der Laptop Man hat uns mit 5 Sterne bewertet.”. Waarop ik naar haar collega’s zwaaide…
Vandaag starten we boven aan de Seilbahn, waar we gisteren gebleven waren. De Talstation van de Seilbahn ligt om de hoek van ons hotel, dus dat is makkelijk.
Daarna gaat het verder, nog een stukje door de wijngaarden en dan door het bos. In het bos lopen we eerst over brede Forstwegen (zandpaden) en daarna duiken we het bos in via smalle paadjes om bij Kloster Marienthal uit te komen. Ook hier hebben ze een Klostercafé en wel met een apart concept. Je kunt iets te drinken en gebak krijgen en je bepaalt zelf of en hoeveel je betaalt. Eigenlijk een beetje zoals het vroeger bij kloosters was. Ik zorg er uiteraard voor dat ze niets te kort komen. In tegenstelling tot Engeland heb ik hier kleingeld genoeg.
Bij Kloster Marienthal hebben ze ook een Kreuzweg en die komt uit bij een openluchtkerk. We steken allebei een kaarsje aan. Het valt ons op dat een klein deel van de banken overdekt is. Dat zal dan wel voor de rijkere gelovigen zijn. Het plebs kan in de regen zitten.
We zijn inmiddels een heel eind van de Rhein afgedwaald en onze wandeling is meer een boswandeling geworden. Geen probleem natuurlijk. Er staan opvallend veel paddestoelen in het bos. We zien ook enkele mensen die paddestoelen plukken. Ik kan me nog herinneren dat we dat vroeger ook deden. Mutti, mijn vader’s oma, wist precies welke paddestoelen eetbaar waren en welke niet. Je moet daar goed mee uitkijken, van de niet eetbare kun je flink ziek worden of zelfs doodgaan.
Na een tijdje verlaten we het bos en komen we weer tussen de wijngaarden terecht. Hier lopen we een klein stukje verkeerd, maar we vinden onze route terug door dwars door de wijnvelden te lopen. Het einde van de etappe is een anticlimax, de route eindigt midden tussen de wijnvelden. We volgen de Zuweg richting Schloss Johannisberg en gaan daar bij de Schlossschänke auf dem Johannisberg op het terras zitten. Helaas hebben ze hier geen bier dus drinken we allebei een Apfelschorle.
Lise heeft het wel gehad met lopen voor vandaag, ze heeft sinds gisteren een blaar op haar voet, en we besluiten om de bus naar beneden, naar Geisenheim, te pakken. Vandaar gaan we met de trein terug naar Rüdesheim alwaar we op een terras langs de Rhein gaan zitten voor een biertje en een munt limonade.
